Travels

Living Vilanculos: beaches, fishing and boa people

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Views from the Baobab railing, on the beach

Tells the story that the great Portuguese navigator and discoverer Vasco de Gama, when he first came into contact with the people who inhabited the current Mozambique (at the end of the 15th century), he called those lands as “Terra de Boa People". In addition, he had stopped refueling food and materials in the current province of Inhambane, where I stopped recharging batteries on my 2 month trip through southern Africa. Although many of these stories are considered legends, I can attest that the Basque friend was right.

Vilanculos He has much less fame among backpackers than his little sister - and something closer to the capital, Maputo - Tofo. For me this was one of the main factors when deciding my destiny. At 37, I recognize that I am not one of those who say no to a good party, but the image of being in a place, almost up from nowhere, where twenty-year-old backpackers have taken over the place to get to the bars at all times, I didn't find anything attractive.

I was looking for a place with calm and beautiful beaches, local people, relaxation… And a little more. I found all that in Vilanculos.

One of the sandy streets of the town

To get to this place put on the map for being the launching pad for those who want to visit the spectacular Bazaruto archipelago, the best way - if you lack your own vehicle - is to take one of the buses from Intercape They leave every day from Maputo. The ticket price goes for about 850 Meticais (20 Euros at the exchange, approximately). There is the alternative of taking a sheet (collective van), offered in the few international hostels in the capital for about 500 MTS but it will take longer and you will travel more uncomfortable.

The bus left at 4.30 in the morning and Agnes - my Dutch friend I had met in Maputo - and I soon fell asleep. About 1 in the afternoon we arrived at the crossroads from where we would climb to the back of a van that fell apart to take us to Vilanculos.

It's amazing how, sometimes, travel guides sometimes extend hoaxes that scare the traveler and limit their experience. In this case, Lonely Planet said that to get to the hostel we had chosen -Baobab Beach- We couldn't even walk from the market where the van leaves you. He said they could assault you even in daylight. I spent ten days in Vilanculos and made that path day, afternoon, early morning after a good drunkenness ... No one did anything but simply say hello.

Our shared bedroom at Baobab Beach

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